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 Post subject: **FREE advice from a Local, Professional, Dog Trainer**
Post Posted: Sep 6, 2005 4:15 pm 
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Hello! Let me introduce my self, my name is Natalie and I have been a professional dog trainer in the Mtn areas for several years. My business is called Friends for Life; Holistic Pet Training. www.friendsforlifeco.com
Any way I would love to help any one that has a question or needs help pertaining to their dog or horse , and I guess cats too. No joke, I just like to help people get on the right track or find a real solution with out the confusion.
"Helping you and your pet become, Friends for Life."

No question will go unanswered: house breaking, barking, obedience, aggression, chewing, nipping, separation anxiety, kennel training, diet, etc...


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Post Posted: Sep 7, 2005 10:32 am 
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Okay here goes, I have a soon to be yr old boxer/mastiff puppy, yes she's big about 80 lbs, people that had her lived in in small appartment, I thought I could give her a good home, she has 1 acre to run on, it's all fenced in, she not a escape dog like my pug, anyway she chews everything, I think she takes things in back yard she thinks she playing, I have given her chew toys she is crate trained goes in at night, but I just caught her chewing on my coffee table of all things, sometimes I think she just wants attention, which believe me she gets plenty of, I just need to know how to get her to stop chewing and stealing stuff to take to back yard,when you call her name she looks and runs faster. Help to big of a dog, I have lost 7 pairs of shoes, she never chews anybody elses.


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Post Posted: Sep 7, 2005 5:32 pm 
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Yes well she loves you the best. Ahh but it is the type of love you could live with out, right? So, to start you will have to take away her advantage ie. she is faster than you. Put a house line ( about a 8 to 10 ft leash with no loop at the end) on her to wear all the time in the house. This way the "chase" game is in more your favor. Next you will have to make a concerted effort to make sure that she does not have access to your stuff. Close all rooms including the bathrooms. Only allow her in rooms with you . If she gets something that is not hers don't say a word just walk up step on the lead pull her to you tell her to " drop it" and remove the item from her mouth. If she drops it on her own then praise her and release her. You will also need to do extensive work on the Recall with her. Right now it is a game. If she has an item that may not be hers But, its not valuable then don't worry about it. The less reaction she gets the less fun it is for her. When you see her with one of her own toys or chewies ( she should have a truck load of toys to play with) then make a big deal about it LOTS of praise!!! Always try to redirect her, if she is pacing around looking for something to do then help her find a toy an play a little. If it is quiet time help her to lay down and stay in one place like a bed or a rug. This will take time , be firm but fair. Take her out for at least a 30 min walk every day. Make her heel for the walk, use a Halti if she is stronger than you. Let me know how it goes or if you have any more questions. Thanks, Natalie


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Post Posted: Sep 15, 2005 10:47 am 
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Okay so far this has worked well, she is in shock when I step on leash, look on her face "howd you do that", well next is since she is boxer mix, and since friends have boxers too, how do I stop her from batting things like me we her paws, she slugs the pug with those monstrous paws and it hurts, i have tried to make her sit when she does and tell her no, now she has her playmate doing the same thing, she's a border collie.


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Post Posted: Sep 15, 2005 11:35 am 
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I am guessing that when she gets to batting at you that it is during a "rampage" ( running around all excited ) or if you attempt to stop her from rough housing with you other dog. IF she is in a "rampage" and you wish her to settle down you will have to get very firm with her. Pull her in with the house line and grab it right by the snap, hold her firmly with eye contact but talk to her quietly. Tell her to "settle" hold on to her until you feel her body relax. Keep her pushed to the floor, so she can't jump away. As soon as she relaxes ( this may take time the first few attempt ) gently release the snap of the leash by sliding your hand down the leash. Don't let her go right away, see if you can maintain a calm for a few seconds then let her go. Praise her for remaining calm. It may take a while, but you should get to a point when you can give her the "settle" command and she will understand. At that point you should redirect her in to a more acceptable play mode or send her out side to play where it is more appropriate. As for the B.C. she will learn to play with your boxer in the way your boxer likes to play. If it seems that the B.C. or your Pug are getting agitated then step in and stop the play the way I described. She will soon come to respect the signals from your other dogs because you are there to back them up.


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Post Posted: Sep 15, 2005 1:00 pm 
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Natalie - we acquired a 4 year old Siberian Husky about 7 months ago. She did not have any discipline and was left out to run. She is absoutley wonderful and a great personalty buttttttttttttt is quite the escape artist. We got that problem solved with an electric fence. We've always let our dogs out when we are in the yard and they stick around this one however makes a game of it. She will not come but always comes back when she's good and ready. I've been working with her on the basics about 30 min. a day and she will sit, stay and come as long as she's in a controled invironment. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks


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Post Posted: Sep 15, 2005 3:44 pm 
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It is good that you have been working with her so much, the recall can be difficult with a dog like yours, and what I mean is that she has had these habits for a long time so it will take time to break them. Keep doing what you are and add this: When working on the recall only work on the recall. You should never call a dog off a "stay" command you should always go back to them. This is how you start to teach the recall : you need to pick a new command other than " come" she has heard that word with no re enforcement for 4 years. It is easier to train a new trick than to fix an old one. I recommend "here" instead or " lets go" you will have to bribe her to begin with, there should always be incentive. The recall is about trust, that trust has and is being questioned every time she chooses not to return to you. Put her on a 6' lead and tell her to sit ( all commands should only be given once , not Sit Sit Sit sit sit sit , just SIT . ) then take a step back from her holding a yummy treat where she can see it right in front of your belly button. Say " here " and take 2 steps back and 1/2 a step forward. Keep the leash slack pulling her won't help you teach her. ([color=red]The control we appear to have over our dogs is an illusion, you must make her think that it is her idea to come to you.[/color])The half step will put her back into a sit. Give the food immediately!! and praise. This exercise is about repetition and setting the dog up to succeed. You will have to do it until she gets it perfectly. Then you will do more steps backwards. You can give her a tug if she doesn't move to begin with , but if she runs past you change your direction and keep moving away from her until she stops right in front of you. You may have to tug on the leash to get her coming in your direction and you may find that she becomes more resistant on greater distances. the other thing is DON"T give her an option, Keep her on a 20 ft training lead at all times until the recall is a habit, and she comes to you with out hesitation. This rule is for the outside of course. In the house you can try the house line ( see above) It will take time and PATIENTS be fair, to her and yourself. ALWAYS praise her for coming to you even if you didn't ask her to. Also do not give a command unless you can re enforce it . Let me know how it goes.


Last edited by Natalie on Oct 13, 2005 3:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Post Posted: Sep 15, 2005 4:22 pm 
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Natalie; I notice you tried to use the bold command on portions of your post. The reason they are not working is that your bbcode has been turned off. To turn it on, go to your profile and activate bbcode.

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Post Posted: Sep 16, 2005 11:49 am 
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Natalie, thanks for offering help to our little furbutts.

My dog is a rescue Border Collie. He has dog aggression, is about 6, and was neutered at 5. We've had him about 11 months. I believe part of it is protective in nature.

At the dog place, they have him getting along with some animals, although he was only there during vacation, so he's not around dogs much.

He just takes off and attacks the dog, then does the border collie circle and comes back again. He'll come to me, but whirls around and goes off again before I can grab his collar. By the way, this has only happened when other dogs were near our yard; we keep him on the leash if we go anywhere, but when we're playing our in non-fenced yard, if a dog comes along on the road and we're near the road (rare), the above happens.

Any suggestions? This, I suppose, was one reason he was put in the shelter to begin with.

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Post Posted: Sep 16, 2005 12:05 pm 
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Natalie - thanks for the great info. we've been doing alot of what you posted but you pointed out things that we haven't. I know Huskies can be a challenge I just never knew how much. We've never had a dog that doesn't mind and that was with very little work. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

Thanks!


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Post Posted: Sep 16, 2005 3:22 pm 
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mtndweeb, Let me know if there is somthing you have been doing that I recomended that is not working for you . Sometimes we have to tweek a method a bit for a specific dog and their personality. Since I haven't met your dog I have to start with a general solution and work from there. Just like people all dogs learn differently. Thanks and good luck!


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Post Posted: Sep 16, 2005 4:19 pm 
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2wlady, so you own the smartest breed of dog and he has issues, the trick to the BC is to not let them know that their actions confuse you or startle you. You will have to always maintain a calm and confident demeanor towards him. He is taking an alpha stance in a situation that is not his job to do so. Yes, BC's are herding dogs they are also bred to protect the heard. You and the family the yard and the house are his herd. But, that does not mean that he is in charge. You will have to make it clear to him that you will let him know when his services are needed and in what form. You will have to do allot of obedience work with him LOTS that is how you will regain your Alpha stance with him. You will have to give him a job ( I know you have heard that one before) a job can be as simple as laying down and staying in a specific spot that you determine.
Example... your out in the yard and a person with a dog walks by, you notice this and call your dog to you , NO you send your dog to his "place" and tell him to "stay" until such time that the other dog has past and is no longer a distraction then you GO TO your dog and praise and release him. Well, you are probably a long way from that situation, allot of work needs to be done before you have all that kind of control. Do you know his history as far as what he was used for before you got him? Is he an only dog at your home? Does he show any signs of having any obedience training? I guess that the first step is to get him confined to your yard only, via 5-6 ft fence or invisible fence.

You are not dealing with an ordinary dog here so there are no easy answers to this situation . I believe that you must know the breed you chose and that they can be quite the challenge. I hope you have dealt with them before.

Start with the walk, only at a heel on a 6 ft lead. Use a "martingale" style collar ( they carry them at Healthy Pet) Think these three rules when you are working him 1. exercise 2. discipline 3. love

To teach him to heel: Put the leash in your left hand with the dog on your left. Bunch the lead in your hand don't wrap it around. Start to walk briskly give him about a foot of lead from your hand to his collar. Imagine a box at your side that starts at the tip of your toe goes around the dog and ends at the dogs rump, the dog must stay in that box . You keep a slack leash and only correct him when he tries to leave the box in any direction. You have to correct him BEFORE he starts to pull on the leash ( this is called " Correcting the Thought" ) This is not as imposable as it sounds. IF he runs out in front of you quickly change direction say his name and the command " heel" when you do this. When you stop tell him to "Sit" don't repeat your self only say it once hold the leash tight and push his butt down then put slack back in the leash once his butt hits the ground. PRAISE him and tell him " good boy, good HEEL" when he is doing it right. Don't verbally correct him only the quick Pop on the lead will tell him when his thought process strays from what you want.

This is a very important lesson. If you need help and want me to show you. You can do a drop in on my group class at Chow Down every Saturday at 1:00. I'll be there for an hour. Bring your dog or I can show you with mine.

I know I didn't give you a specific solution to the problem you posed but, sometimes I have to recommend a less direct rout to fix a problem. Over all if you have control of the entire dog the situation you described will cease to exist.
Good Luck!!


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